Sunday, 15 March 2015

Estella Face-Charts Ideas and hair practice





I wanted to have a look at different types of looks for estella, I decided to go through the key points that we see her in the film and book; child, teen, married and older.

I practiced a couple of looks and decided to see which would best suit the time periods.








My inspiration for his look came from watching Jane Eyre; It was soft, not complicated, and neat for a young girl being brought up in a wealthy environment. 


  • To start his look I sectioned a middle parting.
  • Then sectioned from ear to ear.
  • I then got the back section and put into a high ponytail.
  • I flattened 1.5inch from the centre parting, at the end I put a pin to hold in place.  
  • I started the plait from where the pin was on each side. 
  • Pinned in place to the back of the head where the ponytail was. 
  • I then stretched out the back to create a small bun. (The hair on my doll isn't thick enough so didn't look the best but you can get the gist of what I wanted to achieve.)
  • And that was the completed look!





This look was from the blog post below, I just think the fans in the Apollo knot just look great so thought I would try and do this and it works so well so happy with the outcome. See below how I created this look.





  • Section the hair middle and from ear to ear. 
  • put back half into ponytail and come back to this at the end. 
  • get medium curling tongs and curl side on three barrel curls and pin and hairspray in place. Repeat this on the other side. 
  • With the back section split into three pieces, two large sections the and one smaller. 
  • Take first large section, brush, hairspray, and brush through, do this with the hair horizontal and keep flat. 
  • Then get hair straighteners and go over this lightly. 
  • Add more spray and straighten again, lightly.
  • once hard, bend either towards your or the mirror and pin in place into the bottom on the ponytail where the hairband is. 
  • Reapt this to the other large section. 
  • Once two fans are in place get small section of hair and rap around the bottom to cover up any hair left over and hairband. 
  • Now the back is done, unpin the front curls and slowly pull backwards in an upward motion and pin in place. Repeat this to all curls. And Spray.
  • I added my hair accessories in this image which where three small dark roses, on where the curls bend upwards and around the base on the ponytail.
  • And the look is complete!







In the novel Estella gets married to a nasty man who she wants to break. He is described as  'An oafish, unpleasant young man who attends tutoring sessions with Pip at the Pockets’ house, Drummle is a minor member of the nobility, and the sense of superiority this gives him makes him feel justified in acting cruelly and harshly toward everyone around him. Drummle eventually marries Estella, to Pip’s chagrin; she is miserable in their marriage and reunites with Pip after Drummle dies some eleven years later.' - http://www.sparknotes.com/lit/greatex/characters.html


I wanted this look to show she has grown up more, her hair is more romantic and looser as she is unhappy. I also aged the hair a bit to show she may be greying a bit from the stress of marriage to this ghastly man.




  • Section the middle parting and from ear to ear not too far in about n inch and pin in place. 
  • The with the back half to a horseshoe ponytail, leaving some hair hanging down at the back as you can see from the image above. Put hairband in place into a high ponytail. 
  • Get medium curling tong and barrel curl all bottom section of hair and hairspray. 
  • Get hair from ponytail and do the same.
  • Get front section and curl in a line and pin in place. 
  • Go back to the ponytail and pull curls lightly and pin in place. Don't do it so its really neat but don't do it so its messy. 
  • pull the bottom curls out too so they are softer and spray. 
  • With the pinned curls at the front, un pin them and uncurl them and softly pull them back towards the bun and pin in place. Add hairspray. 
  • Then once all set get dry-shampoo and spray so its white or get disposable wand dip in white Supa Colour and brush through.
  • And the look is complete!





Here are the ideas I had for her:


 
This is with a bruised eye and neck for the beaten wife look.

I wanted to keep the face simple, plain base with a hint of a rose cheek and maybe a rouge lip. 
 






Estella Hair Inspiration


When looking into Estella's hair design I wanted to create a sophisticated clean cut look; not making it too simple or child- like. 

These images below are going to be my main influences, a absolutely adore the Apollo knot with the fan hair popping out the top. It looks so royal and will suit Estella's personality, sharp and methodical.  

Author: Unknown 
Year of publication: Unknown 
Title: Historisches
Viewed: 5th March 2015
Available from: http://www.hfbk-dresden.de/studium/studiengaenge/fakultaet-2/theaterausstattung/maskenbild/historisches-frisieren/historisches-frisieren-2-4studienjahr/



I chose this image as inspiration due to the use of flowers in her hair, it really emphasises her curls and apollo knot. I also love the parting a 'V' shape is a really nice twist on a normal centre parting.


Author: Unknown 
Year of publication: Unknown 
Title: 1830
Viewed: 5th March 2015
Available from:  https://www.pinterest.com/pin/175570085447651013/


These paintings of Countess Von Berchem show the romanticism in the curls, so soft and light, starting high up and coming down to frame the face, and show the natural beauty of the sitter.



Author: Franz Xaver Winterhalter or Joseph Karl Stieler
Year of publication: 1828
Title:  Countess von Berchem
Viewed: 5th March 2015
Available from: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/175570085447651010/ & https://www.pinterest.com/pin/175570085444738447/







Saturday, 14 March 2015

Continuity Miss Havisham Comparisons and Reflections











These are comparisons from Both sides and front and back shots!


The front shot was alright could have been better, makeup was good did that to the chart and how I did it the time before, it was just the hair! the curls where're not on my side I got the petals in the right place but some where more hidden in the second shot which was a bit of a bummer!

  1st shoot                                       2nd shoot


With this side I got the petal in the right place, but its the dam curls that didn't fall into place right in the second shoot, they where way too ringlet style where as in the first shoot they where perfect and where easy to mess up the way I wanted. Very annoyed with both side shots as it could have been so much better! 
  1st shoot                                       2nd shoot


Actually really disappointed that this side wasn't correct! So annoyed at myself, the petal was in the wrong place and the curls where so messed up and the back is higher in the second shoot. I have now learnt from my mistakes for next time!
        
                                           1st shoot                                       2nd shoot



Right, where to begin; I am actually really disappointed with the front and sides of the hair, the curls just don't match the first shoot and I am really disappointed with that, however, the make-up was spot on and I feel that it matched the first shoot well.

If I had a chance to do it again I would take it! As I know that I could have done better.



Friday, 13 March 2015

Second Continuity Assessment Miss Havisham








Again, this is to show my neat and tidy set up; I got marked down last semester for it being messy... so decided to document that it was neat! 

Made sure I had all my essentials:


  • Make-up remover.
  • Cleanser.
  • Toner.
  • Cotton pads.
  • Hand sanitiser.
  • My watch to keep track of how long I had.
  • Water for model and myself.
  • Hairspray.
  • Dry-shampoo.
  • Little pug purse with all clips in.
  • Envelope with my Miss Havishams hair accessories.
  • Make-up Palettes - powder/foundation.
  • Palette to mix foundation on.
  • Brush belt already on my waist!
  • Hairbrushes and combs.
  • Miss Havisham dress in bag to keep clean and safe. 
  • And finally all my designs for hair and makeup and pictures to keep to my last continuity assessment! 





Again I first started with the hair and followed my instructions I had set myself for the 1st one, which you can see below:


  • I sectioned the hair at the front into a middle parting.
  • I then took a section either side of the head just behind the from section and pinned into place for later.
  • I sectioned a V shape for the back of the hair and put into a high ponytail to keep in place for later. 
  • Once all sectioned I curled the front into three downward curls and pinned into place and sprayed with hairspray to set. 
  • I then made sure the ponytail was all neat and read to form. I backcombed the bottom hair of the ponytail and curled it under and pinned in place to look like a bun. 
  • I then got the two sections I pinned in place earlier and made the wrap around the bun and pinned them into place also. I then sprayed it and made it look a little unkept as this is the look I was going for.
  • I then unpinned the curls at the front and ruffed them up with my hands and hair sprayed them again.
  • I then added the hair accessories of wilting flowers falling down her hair.
  • Then added powder and dry-shampoo once makeup was done too.




I wanted to make her look gaunt but not so theatrical! And too grey, more realistic. 

I fist got duo glue and put it on the nose corners and around the lips. Left to dry and crackle. 
I used the Illamasqua skin base mixed with Kryolan foundation buffed this into the skin. 
Powdered the skin to set.
Got grey Kryolan powder and contoured the face and neck and eye sockets.
Mixed red, black and maroon supra colour to put onto the scabby bits and under the eye to look like she hasn't slept. 
Got a disposable wand and dipped into white supra colour and used on eyelashes and eyebrows.

And the look was complete! 





For some reason I actually did find it really difficult the second time round as I was panicking that it wouldn't be the same. I usually find that Im stronger with Hair, but the second time round the curls at the front where not my friend!

They just didn't do what I wanted and didn't want to look the same, was a right nightmare! However the makeup actually was great matched the 1st shoot perfectly, so at least something went right!!

Saturday, 7 March 2015

18th Century Illistration




The illustration from this time period was fantastic, intricate and beautiful. They really grasped what the women of the time looked like before photography was invented. 



Author: Lauren ElizabethBlogSpot
Year of publication: 9th january 2010
Title: The Young Victoria and The Case of the missing Plot
Viewed: 13th February 2015
                                                                                              Available from: http://www.rebelcircus.com/blog/victorian-hairstyle/


                                                                                                     
Author: Retioette
Year of publication: September 2014
Title: 1800s Hairstyles
Viewed: 15th February 2015
                                                                                Available from: http://retroette.com/2014/09/02/feel-see-1830s-hairstyles/

Heres my crack at this style of drawing for some hair creations!



 I have always loved the Apollo Knot on the top of the head with the fans coming out like a plant! I added some feathers to the back to make it look more elaborate.




















I have done the same on this but added a plait around the know and just one big single fan on the head. It makes me think of the teletubbies but its still lovely!

Monday, 2 March 2015

Death Masks * History * My version






Death is a subject that has been shrouded by interest, fear, calm or repulsed by it. It is part of life that some people do not want to face, but eventually will have to. 

My opinion on death is that I know it will happen to everyone, my Mumma, my partner and me, but I hate to think that it can be taken early by illness or just ordinary life routines or having an unhealthily lifestyle. I used to be fine with the subject but as I get older I get this pang of unease in my tummy that I would rather not have! 

Death masks can be many things for the family to have as a Momento or be used to create a portrait after the have died. They are usually made out of either wax or plaster cast following he persons death. 

In other cutters like the ancient Egyptians used other things like artefacts being placed on the face or the use of clay. The most well known of the masks is Tutankamuns mask which was traditional in the mummification process. 


 ðŸ’€ðŸ‘³

Tutankhamun Mask

Author: Hairdressing
Year of publication: 1893
Title: Harpers Bazar
Viewed: 13th February 2015
Available from: http://www.historyofmasks.net/mask-history/history-of-egyptian-masks/

Within the ancient Egyption culture, masks were mostly used for two purposes, as death masks and as ritual masks. They believed that it was important to preserve the body of the deceased because the soul has to have a place where to dwell after the death. 

Mummification; This is the preservation of the dead body, a process that involved removing of the internal organs and placing it in canopic jars, wrapping body in linen and embalming. 



Author: Hairdressing
Year of publication: 1893
Title: Harpers Bazar
Viewed: 13th February 2015
Available from: http://emhotep.net/2011/06/28/egypt-in-the-news/mumab-a-modern-day-ancient-egyptian-mummy-and-what-he-has-taught-us-so-far/

It was also considered very important for the soul to be able to recognise the body so it can return to it. I find that was an amazing outlook on how they considered he afterlife to be, to be so technical about it by removing body organs and everything I find quite amazing. 

 Death masks were made to resemble the deceased and they did they picked up each pore or scratch,  and even now they have got e technology to show us what the people actually would have looked like through a scanner ( link below to documentary on the history channel) 


Royal death masks were made from precious metals; gold or gold leaves on bronze. One of the most famous funerary masks is the mask of the Tutankhamen. All death masks were made to resemble deceased but with a slightly enlarged eyes and a faint smile and also showed fashion of the moment with painted jewellery and makeup. These death masks later evolved into a full body inner coffins in the human shape with same decorations and ornaments.
Ritual masks were worn by priests during rituals. Those masks were also made from cartonnage and then painted. They were made in the likeness of animal heads, heads of gods of ancient Egypt. Head of Anubis, god of death with a head of a jackal, was worn during funeral ceremonies such is “Opening of the Mouth” which was a symbolic animation of a mummy. Priest would wear a mask on his head and it would cover his shoulders. Head of the mask was also taller than a priest’s head so he was constrained to look through two small holes on the neck of the mask. Other gods and goddesses also had their masks. Religion in the Ancient Egypt was very important. Temples were places where gods lived and statues of gods were gods themselves. Everything considering the religion was shrouded in mystery. Priest who wore a mask of a god during a ceremony would become an avatar of god, aembodiment of god himself. Priest would speak his words and convey his will.


L'Inconnue de la Seine is French for "the unknown woman of the Seine". This was an unidentified young woman whose death mask became a popular thing to have in artists homes in the 1900. From just an mask of her face, she became inspiration for numerous literary works. 




















Author: Hairdressing
Year of publication: 1893
Title: Harpers Bazar
Viewed: 13th February 2015
Available from: http://www.cultofweird.com/medical/most-kissed-lips/

The story that has been told over the years; 
"The body of the young woman was pulled out of the Seine River at the Quai du Louvre in Paris around the late 1880s. Since the body showed no signs of violence, suicide was suspected.
pathologist at the Paris morgue was, according to the story, so taken by her beauty that he had a mould make a wax plaster cast death mask of her face. It has been questioned whether the expression of the face could belong to a drowned person. According to other accounts, the mask was taken from the daughter of a mask manufacturer in Germany. The identity of the girl was never discovered. Claire Forestier estimated the age of the model at no more than 16, given the firmness of the skin.
In the following years, numerous copies were produced. The copies quickly became a fashionable morbid fixture in Parisian Bohemian society. Albert Camus and others compared her enigmatic smile to that of the Mona Lisa, inviting numerous speculations as to what clues the eerily happy expression in her face could offer about her life, her death, and her place in society.
The popularity of the figure is also of interest to the history of artistic media, relating to its widespread reproduction. The original cast had been photographed, and new casts were created back from the film negatives. These new casts displayed details that are usually lost in bodies taken from the water, but the apparent preservation of these details in the visage of the cast seemed to only reinforce its authenticity.
Critic Al Alvarez wrote in his book on suicide, The Savage God: "I am told that a whole generation of German girls modeled their looks on her." According to Hans Hesse of theUniversity of Sussex, Alvarez reports, "the Inconnue became the erotic ideal of the period, as Bardot was for the 1950s. He thinks that German actresses like Elisabeth Bergnermodeled themselves on her. She was finally displaced as a paradigm by Greta Garbo."
Available from: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-24534069



The mannequin that is used in CRP is the famous'Inconnue de la Seine. Over the years Rilke, Louis Aragon, Man Ray and Vladimir Nabokov successively fell under the Inconnue's spell and at one time no fashionable European drawing room was complete without a mask of the Inconnue on the wall.

In  Asmund Laerdal saved the life of his young son; at that time he was a successful Norwegian toy manufacturer, making children's dolls, model cars and what not for the new generation of soft plastics. 
When he was approached to make a training aid for the newly-invented technique of CPR, the combination of chest compressions and the kiss of life.
I have read that Asmund wanted his mannequin to have a natural appearance and felt that a female doll would be 'less threatening to trainees'. Inconnue de la Seine would become the face of Resusci Anne! 
I find it a sad but lovely story, she may have died alone but she has become a recognised face to all; we all have tried to breathe life back into her!
 

I cast the shadows on my face by using a torch in different directions to catch parts of my face!

My Make-up attempt:

Decided to add a skull, go to my gothic routes ;)